Wednesday, July 9, 2008

Rough Trail

We did not get an early start this morning partially because the students had to cook their own breakfast and then pack everything into their wagons. Trenton and Mr. Bill Vixie went grouse hunting, without success. Shortly before we were ready to head out of camp, a scruffy looking character named Wayne rode into camp. He had Bill’s horses! He had retrieved them from some renegades and came to camp looking for a trade. Katie and Mikayla stuffed his saddle bags with potatoes, and Bill got the horses back. Later he and Livee, with the help of the other students, put pack saddles on the horses and the mules, loading their gear, but leaving behind most of Bill’s possessions. He was quite upset that they had let him have only his bedroll and a very few other items.

We finally got on the trail at 11:33 a.m., which is very late in the day when you have to go eight or ten miles to the next camp. Our route was along the Barlow Road, leaving from Forest Creek Camp. The first mile or so was particularly difficult because of a steep climb and the fact that there were many trees down across the road. It was almost three in the afternoon when our trail scouts came back to us and told us we could not continue on the trail we then followed because the snowmelt had been coming out of the area around Mt. Hood due to the recent hot temperatures. The White River is running high and we cannot ford. There also was a very steep hill to climb with some difficult turns. Mr. Bill went up the road with our scouts and came back with the news that we could not make it today is road. We reversed the course of our two wagons and pack animals, and returned for Forest Creek Camp.

We got into camp by about 4 o’clock, and rested until it was time to cook dinner. Mr. Dave Vixie’s family made a strawberry pie from supplies they had traded for at Seminoe Fort back near Devil’s Gate. Mr. Merchant and Mrs. Wragge had ham and some beans for supper. I did not see what Mr. Bill Vixie’s family had for dinner.

Following the meal, we had a talent show with a monologue from “Othello” by Javonna, who was also the emcee, a song by Bailey and Andrew, some guitar music and drum accompaniment by Josh and Jakob, fiddle music by Candace, a song by Marisha, who was accompanied on the drum by Darla. The Vixie family, led by Monte (who has not had much to say all week), shared a song, I’ll call the “laughing attack.” Ranger Jane shared a story, while we had music from the teamsters, and a song by Mrs. Wragge, Ranger Jane, and Joseph. This was a fun night on the trail.

--Candy Moulton














- Photos by Lincoln Morrison

Tuesday, July 8, 2008

On the Barlow Road

This morning we changed the operation of the train, breaking the students into three family groups. One group is traveling now with Mr. and Mrs. Dave Vixie. Another is a family of Bill Vixie, Ranger Jane and several “children” while the last is the “family” of Mr. Merchant and Mrs. Wragge. Jakob said he had been homesick, but becoming a part of a family on the wagon train has helped him. Today we traveled down the Barlow Road, finding it extremely difficult to negotiate. There were downed trees and even though much of the gear was left behind at gravel camp, the wagons were still too heavy, making it difficult for the teams to pull them. Bill’s horses were missing this morning, so we had to leave one wagon behind and only had three left. In one area Mr. Dave Vixie’s family found it necessary to leave even more thing behind, including their sleeping bags, and personal possessions. Mr. Bill Vixie didn’t have much better luck. When going down one steep hill, the students were holding onto ropes to help hold the wagon back. But the hill was too much for them and the wagon picked up speed, crashing at the bottom of the hill. Fortunately Livee had taken the team down separately, and the students and Bill let go of the ropes as the wagon picked up speed, so nobody was hurt.

The other wagons had to negotiate around the broken parts left littering the trail. Later Bill and Mr. Monte Nystrom took the mules and used some pack saddles to retrieve some of the goods, so the “family” had food, blankets, sleeping bags, and other items in camp tonight.

Everybody was really beat by the time we got in to camp (crew and students alike). The families cooked their own dinner and then shared some music in Mr. Merchant’s camp.

John and Jennie, some settlers from Oregon City, come to camp. They told us about the road ahead, warning us that some of the more difficult stretches lay ahead of us with steep hills, and a river to cross. But they also told us about fertile farmland in the Willamette Valley. John really got the attention of the girls in camp when he told them they could claim land of their own, but only if they were married. The scheming began immediately as the girls began discussing the potential husband material in camp. Methinks the girls want the land more than they want the husband, but if it takes a husband to get the land, they’ll try to find one.

Today Lydia, Angela, and Mike were not on the trail as they are all still feeling unwell and remained behind with our support crew.

We did not locate Mr. Bill Vixie’s horses today. Andrew was the most upset about the missing animals, telling me he could run fast and go into the forest and just find them. Lincoln and I were both concerned he might just try to do that, so we set Ranger Jane on sentry duty to be sure Andrew did not disappear. He seemed somewhat relieved when Mr. Bill assured him the horses would eventually return home.

--Candy Moulton

Into the Blues

We hit the trail in the vehicle caravan this morning, headed west across Oregon. We did some filming at the viewpoint in the Blue Mountains west of LaGrande, and spent a lot of time there, just soaking in the trail. After a lunch at Subway in Pendleton we booked it west, traveling through The Dalles and then south to Tygh Valley and Wamic before heading west into the Mt. Hood National Forest where we will be filming for the next few days. We arrived at camp to find the Washington County 4-H support team already there. We were running late (as usual on this adventure), and supper was ready. Our main course was salmon, a treat thought up months ago as I worked on research for the project and recognized that when the pioneers reached Oregon they met local Indians who provided them with information, guide service, and supplies, the predominant one of which was salmon. This evening in camp we read diary entries. One that made all the students relate to the trail dealt with a woman named Lydia who had become ill. This struck a chord because our Lydia has been ill all day. In fact, both she and Bailey spent last night in a motel in Baker City along with Ranger Jane. The two girls (and a few other students) have been dealing with some upset stomachs.

Monday, July 7, 2008

We are in Oregon

We spent our first night in Oregon camped at the fairgrounds in Baker City, in order to do some filming at the wagon camp circle at the Oregon Trail Interpretive Center near town. Our first full day in Oregon had us in the vans and vehicles driving to an overlook site in the Blue Mountains between LaGrande and Pendleton, and then on west to The Dalles, where we turned south toward Tygh Valley and west toward Mt. Hood. As we made this journey, our students had no idea of the destination, but they were certainly pleased to arrive at our first campsite in the Mt. Hood National Forest.

Even though this camp was in an old gravel pit, it was ringed by forest and being far away from any town, was dark and quiet.

--Candy Moulton
Frankie, Darla, Angela and Eddie....first day in camp.


Sunday, July 6, 2008

Onward to Oregon

Our journey resumed today when we left camp en route to Oregon. Traveling by van and car caravan, we drove to Soda Springs, Idaho, in time to see the spring spout into the air. From there it was on west to Shoshone Falls, where we took another group photo with the spray of the falls boiling up behind everyone. We arrived at our camp at the Baker County Fairgrounds in late afternoon, changed from traveling clothes (shorts and flip flops) to trail clothes (long dresses, aprons and bonnets for the girls; pants and shirts for the boys). We drove to the National Historic Oregon Trail Center near Baker City where we were greeted by Sarah LeCompte, who had kept the area open late so we could do some filming. The wind was whipping across the top of the hill, reminding me of Wyoming. It was good for the students to experience the stiff breeze, but created some difficulties for our sound crew (Lincoln Morrison and Susan Bryant) so we filmed images but little sound, before headed back down to Baker City where Mr. Merchant and Mrs. Wragge made a fine meal of spaghetti with garlic bread.

--Candy Moulton

Saturday, July 5, 2008

Wild Card

July 5, 2008

We had a Wild Card today and decided to lay over in Montpelier, Idaho. We are at the Allinger Park, where we have a grassy campsite with trees to provide shade and stalls for the horses and mules. The students slept in this morning and then did their laundry. After lunch we had a tour of the California-Oregon Trail Interpretive Center (Thank you Becky Smith) followed by swimming at the local pool. Some of the students took naps under the big trees.

Kim Merchant, who has the nickname "Banjo," began playing late in the afternoon and Ranger Jane, our Forest Service representative who is traveling with us, got a guitar and joined in. For supper we had taco salad and then Brian and some of the other students made homemade chocolate ice cream.


--Candy Moulton

Friday, July 4, 2008

Parting of the Ways

In the 19th century, wagon companies separated at various points on the trail...some people to go to Oregon and some to California. For the past few days we have had considerable discussion about which territory should be our destiny with Mr. Merchant and Mrs. Wragge insisting Oregon has more opportunity, particularly for families, while Mr. Vixie has been obsessed with California and the idea that he might find gold out there.

This morning when we awoke, it was to find that Mr. Vixie had indeed parted our company. But while we attended to the business of the day in our early morning meeting, he returned announcing that since hd has a new son and good wife, he will hold his family together and go to Oregon.

Although Mr. Vixie returned to camp, and says he is now committed to going to Oregon, others left the wagon train today. Chuck Miller, outrider Steve Moulton, and cook Rick Stevens of Horseback Adventures, along with Kenedy, Rachel, and Frankie departed early in the morning by wagon.

Later in the day we left the Jackson Creek Campground and headed on west by vehicle, stopping at South Pass, where I had a chance to talk about the history of the area before filming began. Here we had another student, Patrick, return home.

We have now reduced our wagon train by several people and expect to maintain this number of participants.

After our stop at South Pass we drove on to Montpelier, Idaho, where we were welcomed at the National California Trail Interpretive Center, by Director Becky Smith. whose crew served a wonderful hot dinner, after which we headed to camp pitched tents in the fading light, and then sent the kids off to the high school to take showers. (Brian told me later the water was cold, but the shower felt good.)

It is the real Fourth of July today, and Montpelier is a town with plenty of fireworks. There were explosions of color all around and above us and a band has struck up some music in the park.

--Candy Moulton

Thursday, July 3, 2008

Mikayla and Bob

Mikayla was a rock as wagon master today, standing up, by herself, to all of the boys in the train when they were having disagreements. She REFUSED to back down and let them continue with some petty jealousies, and instead forced them to face their own insecurities and issues. That happened the night we forded the river and was powerful not only for the boys—particularly Mike and Josh who had a one-on-one that changed attitudes significantly, and Andrew and Jakob with tiny, wise Jakob helping Andrew deal with being homesick and bringing him into the fold of the wagon family. Mikayla really bared her soul to the boys in that encounter as I stood in stunned disbelief at her candor.

Later, when the camera was down, I had a moment with Bob that also rocked me. He is so strong and so determined with his film making that I could not believe it when he looked into my eyes as his own brimmed over with tears. He told me he does not know how he will be able to say goodbye to these students. I placed my hands on his arms at the shoulder and tried to lend my bit of strength to him. I know this journey is so very difficult physically for all of us. Now it has become emotionally charged by our responsibility for these children who have been entrusted to our care, and it has let us bare our own souls to each other as well.


--Candy Moulton

Shoshones

This morning three young Shoshone men arrived in the area where we were filming, eventually riding their horses into the scene in order to create an element of fear. The three, Jake, Tom, and Teton, rode back and forth across the prairie, no doubt keeping an eye on the area for rattlesnakes.

Later in the afternoon more members of their family including George Abeyta and his family and James Trosper and his family, arrived. As the sun dipped below the mountains, these Shoshones were completely dressed and ready to share some of their culture with our wagon train group.

Both James and George are great-grandsons of Chief Washakie. They spoke of their heritage and culture and traded some of their goods for items from the wagon train ranging from a gun to shoes, to bullets and powder. In exchange they received leather gauntlelts and other gifts.

After trading, the Eagle Spirit Dancers performeod followed by the Foxfire drum and singing group. The Shoshones demonstrated dancing (Jake did a good hoop dance), and then invited the students to participate with them. The night sky was studded with stars, the drums pounded, Shoshone voices clearly singing, as the dancers wove through camp dancing, stirring up dust, sweeping near the fire, and turning in and on itself.

It was truly great to have these tribal members visit us and share their stories. As I stood behind the cameras watching this scene unfold naturally and fluidly, I could not help but think of the journal entries that describe similar scenes, for certainly Shoshones--perhaps even Chief Washakie himself--came to the emigrant camps, where they traded, sang, danced, and told stories.


--Candy Moulton

Stuck in the River (almost)

Today a heavy fog enveloped our camp creating a quiet atmosphere in which to begin the day. By mid-morning, the students had chosen Mikayla as the wagonmaster for the day. I find it interesting that the leaders so far have been female: Lydia, Javonna, Angela, and now Mikayla.

The fog was lifting by the time the wagons rolled out of camp. This morning the wagon train forded the Sweetwater river. Mr. Mechant led the way with his wagon, and did not make it all the way across, leading Mr. Vixie to take his mule team up and across the river to double-team the wagon and pull it out. He did that with three of the five wagons.

A gold miner overtook the train today, looking for a cook named Rick who had "stolen my mule." He said that cook was known to turn mule meat into ham and wondered if the students had had or seen any. (From their collective intake of breath, I wonder if they aren't quite sure what the meat is that they received from Mr. Rick).

--Candy Moulton

Wednesday, July 2, 2008

We continue to celebrate



Bailey reads the Declaration of Independence in celebration of Independence Day


This morning camp was aroused with much activity, Mrs. Vixie needed help in her tent and Mrs. Wragge immediately went there. As the students and Mr. Merchant continued to celebrate the Fourth of July by reading the Declaration of Independence, Mr. Vixie paced nervously. Mikayla and Darla were summoned to Mrs. Vixie's tent and soon I saw them hauling water from Mr. Rick, the cook.

We returned from our celebration of freedom in front of the markers at Independence Rock and were joined by Gaynell Park, the landowner on the Dumbell Ranch, who gave us information about how she and her husband, Norm, had worked to preserve the view east of Independence Rock, and how they had donated land around it to the State of Wyoming, so it is now a Wyoming State Historical Site. Just as she wrapped up her talk, we heard the cry of a baby. The Vixie's have a son!

Several of the girls began crying. I'm not sure if they were relieved that the baby had come without any problems, or if they were scared.

Angela was elected wagon master today and took charge of the camp organization. She assigned girls to help Mrs. Vixie with the baby. During the day I saw the infant in several different caring arms.

Later in the morning we visited the Fulkerson grave where stories were shared about death on the trail. This became an extremely emotional situation, far more so than we as film producers had ever imagined. I personally had a tough time at the grave in thinking about the loss of my own Dad last December. As I sat on a rock sobbing, I felt arms around me. When I could finally pull my head up, I found Rachel on one side and Livee on the other. Other students and adults were having similar emotional moments and through my tears I could see them all supporting each other. Already we have become a close wagon train family.

--Candy Moulton

Tuesday, July 1, 2008

July 1, 2008

Independence Rock

Through movie making magic July 1rst became the 4th of July for the film. Our travelers walked and rode to Independence Rock nearly a 12-mile journey from their camp at Horse creek. If travelers made it to here by the 4th they were likely to make it to the west before the first snows. Two of our travelers Jacob and Patrick walked the entire 12 miles and still had the energy to dance and sing that night as we celebrated the 4th. The travelers have changed tent mates with some interesting results.

-- Bob Noll

Tuesday, July 1

We have time traveled back to the mid-1800s….for the sake of discussion, the 1850s, and today we traveled to the Fourth of July in order to celebrate when we got to Independence Rock. This morning we headed down the trail and had to do a short stretch of travel on Wyoming Highway 220. Our outriders decided to stay in the highway right-of-way as long as possible, moving onto the pavement only long enough to cross the bridge over Horse Creek and then off again. Last night we camped on Murphy Ranch and today we crossed both the Pathfinder and Dumbell ranches to get to Independence Rock.

This morning the train elected Javonna as the new wagon master. It has been amazing to see the transformation of the students already. On Sunday they were really dragging. The effects of a hard day of travel on Saturday combined with high altitude (especially for our California and Boston dreamers) had left the kids less energetic than they might otherwise be. But today I noticed a real change. Quackgrass and I have long known that to really get a feel for trail life, you have to be on the wagons for at least three days…And this is Day 3.

Patrick, who is very tall and thin and who wants to be a Marine, hangs out with Jakob who is very short and fast like a rabbit when he runs. They walked all the way to Independence Rock, where the kids climbed to the top of the most written about landmark on the Oregon Trail.

We celebrated the Fourth of July here. Patrick danced an Irish jig, Bailey’s voice rang loud and clear as the Dreamers sang Amazing Grace, and there was some dancing directed by Janet Wragge.

Before the big celebration Bob asked the kids to talk about their impressions of the journey so far. I truly knew these students were capturing the spirit of the trail when one of the girls said “I don’t know what time it is, or even what day it is. I just know we have morning, noon and night.”

Candy